![]() I still have many unassigned combinations and will fill them all in gradually as I get more comfortable with the game. Some examples of what I have are as follows.īasically with the A, B, X and Y buttons as Modifiers you can use them along with Up/Down/Left/Right DPad for whatever functions you want. The A, B, X and Y buttons I have set as Modifiers to DPAD buttons. I have Left Bumper assigned to Weapon Fire (for cannons) and Right Bumper assigned to Weapon Release (for missiles). The unmodified DPad buttons I have assigned to camera view, so I can rotate the external view of the plane in all directions. ![]() I have left stick axis assigned to pitch and roll, and right stick axis assigned to the look around functions so the right stick acts like the pilot's head. This allowed me to stear the plane on the ground and make tight turns very easily. You may need to invert the axis to get the desired result.įor the F15c, after much experimentation, I managed to get taxiing working great using Joy_Z axis for rudder, click down left stick for wheel breaks (W key), and click down right stick for Nose Wheel Manoeuvring Mode (S key). I think the axis to assign is called Joy_Z. I am using an Xbox-360 controller myself and have a few tips.įirstly, the left and right "Trigger" buttons are useless for anything other than Rudder, so assign them to the left and right rudder in the Axis Assignment screen. I also like that the TM Warthog can be put between your legs because the base plate is very flat or can even be removed. If like the A-10C a lot, then the TM Warthog is the best choice, being exactly the same stick as the real thing, it even binds the buttons correctly for you automatically, and all of the tutorials refer to all of the same buttons so learning is a little easier too. ![]() Of course on X-55 Rhino you can always hold down another button to make up for it. So this dual stage trigger is better for tank busting and other hard targets. Then you press the trigger in further and activate the 2nd stage which fires the cannon, and this way the nose of the aircraft doesn't pitch up, so all of the bullets end up in a small area, instead creating a line of bullets as would happen in a normal strafing run. ![]() In the A-10C if you want to shoot the cannon in a concentrated area, you press in the trigger just slightly to activate the first stage, and the plane then tries to keep its course to whereever you are aiming. However, the A-10C (and some WW2 planes) play better with sticks that have a dual stage cannon trigger (the X-55 has only single stage), like the TM Warthog. The X-55 Rhino is a great choice for a HOTAS, as it has a lot of buttons which is great for anything in DCS, it's 1/2 the price of the TM Warthog, and it also has a twist action for the rudder controls, so you don't need to buy any pedals. Guns runs are tricky are to achieve from a proper stand off distance, but not too bad for mowing down trucks and the like, after you have taken out anything that can shoot back with missiles. Originally posted by Tom:I used to fly the A-10C with an Xbox 360 controller. Having said all that DCS is immensely more enjoyable with a stick and trackIR - I would even purchase the trackIR before I bought a stick.Įnjoy :) (btw checkout my tutorials for DCS they are written to get to started quickly) (Although knowing now that a TM Warthog, will re-sell second hand for a good price, its a non issue I guess).įrom memory my configuration was similar to what you would do in a first person shooter on a console. The reason I used a controller, was that I wanted to make sure I had the patience and persistence to learn how work the aircraft before went out and bought a proper HOTAS and TrackIR. The analog sticks are much too sensitive with no curve set up otherwise. The key for me was to go into AXIS ASSIGN, and then click on AXIS TUNE for the Pitch, Roll, and Rudder - setting a fairly high curve, something around 40 from memory. I used to fly the A-10C with an Xbox 360 controller. ![]()
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